Technically speaking for the front axles you can use manual ones. However you really should obtain the passenger side axle from an automatic. The automatic passenger side axle has a bump on it that makes it exponentially easier to get the axle out of the transmission. The manual ones are difficult to get out since there isnt anything to pry on. Thats what the bump in the passenger side axle is for.

This is required. Using the manual one will cause axle alignment issues as well as fluid leaking. These shafts are based on the location of the differential in conjunction with the axle. The shaft you need is based on the transmission. If you have a 1G transmission then you need the either 1g manual or 1g automatic shaft with only the 1G Automatic axle intermediate shaft bracket. Same if you have a 2G transmission then you need the 2G intermediate shaft. The 2g diff is spaced differently then the 1G thus why they are different. 1g and 2g shafts are not interchangeable as the 2g shaft is longer in length. If you have a 6 bolt in a 2g then you need the 1g auto bracket with a 2g automatic shaft. Thanks to Jeff Bush for this.

There are no difference in the manual and automatic driveshafts.

Rear axles arent specific to automatic and manual. They are specific to the diff. 3 bolt and 4 bolt and LSD or non LSD. Manual rear axles work just fine so long as you have the right ones.

Driveshaft Shop offers rear axles. These are usually not necessary as most people are able to get by with the stock front axles.

There is an aftermarket 300m intermediate shaft that JB Designs makes. It is only available from him with the 6 bolt with 2g trans converter kit.

JB Designs has made these out of Billet Aluminum due to how hard these are getting to find. These will work with A/C cars or with the rear mounted alternator. This removes the spacers and other stuff that are easily lost. It is slightly slotted for perfect fitment to eliminate the leaky transmission seal. These are compatible with 6 and 7 bolt. This is 1.2 Lbs lighter then the OEM part. It takes the same bearings as the OEM part.

Driveshaft shop offers a couple options for this. They are a good idea to have since they get rid of part of the factory driveshaft which promotes deflection. So this can help quite a bit. The one piece driveshaft is even better but of course it comes with a price.

There was an aftermarket slip yoke available. This part is universal when it comes to manual or automatic. However it is only available if you have a driveshaft shop driveshaft for 25 spline transfer case output shafts and your transfer case has a 25 spline 300m output shaft. Its a Sonnax Forged Slip Yoke. This item is discontinued by Sonnax however Driveshaft Shop now uses them. The reason this product is relevant is because the Dana/Spicer slip yoke at the time came on the driveshaft shop driveshaft for 25 spline transfer case output shafts yoke will twist and cause binding in the drive train and can cause serious carnage. This is the resolution to that. Like mentioned Driveshaft Shop now carries these and has replaced the Dana/Spicer cast unit they used to use. Please understand this REQUIRES the driveshaft shop driveshaft and the 25 spline 300m outout shaft in the transfer case.

Driveshaft Shop offers rear axles. If your running the 3000GT rear diff they can put the 3000GT diff cups on the axles.