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Old 10-09-2003, 03:35 PM   #201
Marq4g63
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So Ken can you post your new method your currently running? or its DL-topsecret-confidential

let us.. me atleast know so maybe i can try it and lemme be a guinea pig too
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Old 10-09-2003, 04:09 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marq4g63


yea vac present = closed :: boost present = open

which means you shouldnt be lagging when youre on boost top end since they should be open. get it.

ya kenGSX and i were talking about that...its prob. a mix of having a stock intercooler*yikes i know* and that I had that one way conister hooked on to it..so the butterfly never sees poss. pressure just vacume
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Old 10-09-2003, 04:16 PM   #203
Marq4g63
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Quote:
Originally posted by GST2EVO
and that I had that one way conister hooked on to it..so the butterfly never sees poss. pressure just vacume

that explains it
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Old 10-09-2003, 04:19 PM   #204
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lol..ya thats what i thought..too bad i just sold the green.. and can never see the real power it puts out...I dont know if i want to though..thing scared me enough as it is..lol couldnt imagine if it was running to full efficeny
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Old 10-09-2003, 04:42 PM   #205
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So with the way you had it hooked up, you can pull vacuum, but not introduce pressure. The only possible way for the runners to open is if the reservoir canister bleeds enough vacuum, but that won't really happen.

I have a diagram I made of my original approach. I'll see if I can post is soon.

Ken
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Old 10-09-2003, 05:18 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally posted by kengsx
So with the way you had it hooked up, you can pull vacuum, but not introduce pressure. The only possible way for the runners to open is if the reservoir canister bleeds enough vacuum, but that won't really happen.
Ken

yes
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Old 10-10-2003, 02:45 PM   #207
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there's no secret to making the butterflies work. mine have been working correctly for at least 2 years. i used 2 solenoids, the boost control(normal closed) and the fuel purge(normal open), a hobbs pressure switch, and the blue/white cannister, 2 inline tees and you are done. you can monitor when the actuator opens with a vacuum/boost gauge. mine open at about 6 lbs boost. i also tapped into the egr solenoid circuit(comes on above 3k rpm) to power the solenoids. when the hobbs switch closes, one solenoid opens, the other closes, air/boost bleeds to the acuator, and the butterflies open.
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Old 10-10-2003, 03:44 PM   #208
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That is a good summary on the Cyclone operation. Other diagrams have been posted, but they did not appear to be as succinct as your description sounds. Could you please post a schematic diagram of your connection. I am not certain how each of the elements is connected. Thanks, Bill Spruill
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Old 10-10-2003, 03:53 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally posted by ho chi inn
there's no secret to making the butterflies work. mine have been working correctly for at least 2 years. i used 2 solenoids, the boost control(normal closed) and the fuel purge(normal open), a hobbs pressure switch, and the blue/white cannister, 2 inline tees and you are done. you can monitor when the actuator opens with a vacuum/boost gauge. mine open at about 6 lbs boost. i also tapped into the egr solenoid circuit(comes on above 3k rpm) to power the solenoids. when the hobbs switch closes, one solenoid opens, the other closes, air/boost bleeds to the acuator, and the butterflies open.

Is this similar? Not mine BTW. But similar...diagram

and this is his actual setup...picture

I'll upload my concept soon, but this pretty much sums it up. Ho Chi Inn's is even more comprehensive

Ken
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Old 10-10-2003, 04:33 PM   #210
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Super stuff, guys. Those last two posts really sum up the Cyclone mystery that has been going on for sometime. Now, are there any hints at fitment while retaining the U.S. air conditioning?
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Old 10-10-2003, 06:25 PM   #211
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The link will no doubt change because the website is new. But here is the old diagram I made way back when.

vacuum and wire hookup:
http://ken.69thstreet.org/
(follow DSM links on my website for cyclone information)

Ken Young

Last edited by Taboo : 10-12-2003 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 10-10-2003, 06:44 PM   #212
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the diagram and the picture is very close to what i got. i dont have the boost solenoid open to atmosphere, i have it tee'd in, so when it switches over, instead of atmos, it gets boost. also, to answer the a/c question, i have a galant vr4, and to get the cyclone to clear the a/c, i had to rotate the coil pack about 20 deg, and grind off the boss that interferes with the a/c line. i then drilled another hole in the coil bracket, and it mounts with just 2 bolts. access to the charge port is partially blocked, so when i charge up the a/c, i remove the coil and just tie wrap it temporarily, then the charge port is easily accessable. also, i had kingsborne wires make me a set of ign wires, you can order them direct, and tell them it is the eclipse wires for the cyclone. they are red, and they are the best fitting wires i have ever had. to install the cyclone by itself, i had to take it apart. there are 2 really long studs that connect the middle piece(i dont remember, but you WILL see the studs) and i had to replace one stud with a long bolt, in order to get it to clear. to install the cyclone assembled, i think i need another couple of joints in my arm. i also got enough of the old gaskets off, and made new ones, then used sealant to be sure. also, the jdm throttle body only has one port, it sees NOTHING below about 3k rpm. it is useless.
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Old 10-10-2003, 07:03 PM   #213
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Again, GREAT!
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:55 AM   #214
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I was able to use regular aftermarket plug wires, nothing custom, just magnecores. I too had to mess with the coil pack:

I took a stock coilpack and dissassembled it, then dissassembled the JDM coil pack, I didn't use it, but I did use the metal bracket. Then I checked the JDM bracket vs the cyclone and determined how the holes line up, and I turned it backwards to get the best fit for the coilpack. I had to grind a bid to get it to bolt up, and in fact I could only use 2 out of 3 of the bolts. But it is secure and able to transmit heat. That is key, everything you do needs to be conducive to maximum heat transfer to keep the coils cool. Make sure the coils can lay flat and have as much contact with the bracket, and that the bracket has good contact with the manifold.

I had to bend the bracket at the top where the coil plug attaches, and drill a couple holes to secure the coils better, and one hole had to be drilled and tapped for a ground-like piece that I haven't identified. The power transistor was cake, I had the JDM one that was melted, and removed the bracket and attached the US one to it. That bolts to the back of the manifold. I don't know if there will be an interference issue with any of these things until I drop it in a week from now.

I also made gaskets for the manifold out of do-it-yourself 0.4mm gasket material and an exacto knife. I have pictures of that and I'll eventually get them on my website, along with the coilpack, and other port work pictures.

It's all bolted up as one piece to the engine, and I hope to drop it in. My AC has been removed so I don't have to worry about that.

Ken
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Old 10-11-2003, 01:00 AM   #215
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Quote:
the jdm throttle body only has one port, it sees NOTHING below about 3k rpm. it is useless


Can this "above 3000 rpm" feature be used similar to your EGR solenoid hookup, to achieve the same results? I have the JDM throttle body and would like to use it. That was one of my thoughts for controlling them via rpm, although unchangeable.

Ken
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Old 10-11-2003, 02:03 PM   #216
ho chi inn
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Quote:
Originally posted by kengsx


Can this "above 3000 rpm" feature be used similar to your EGR solenoid hookup, to achieve the same results? I have the JDM throttle body and would like to use it. That was one of my thoughts for controlling them via rpm, although unchangeable.

Ken
you could, but then you have no vacuum to close the butterflies below 3k rpm. then, you have to use another source. i just tap into one source, and use it for both solenoids. since the cyclone has no egr, i just run a blocked hose down into the lower recesses of the engine, to pass visual. i even tried the solenoid that has 2 openings on one end(capped), because i thought it would be a dual on/off, but no such luck.
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Old 10-12-2003, 01:21 PM   #217
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ok, doesnt a boost controller work by; hold pressure on one line till the spring cannot handle it anymore (reached set boost), than begins to blead that boost though the other line?

If so, why cant you just take one line to a vacum sourse, hook to boost control., than hook the other side up to the butterfly accuator?
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:00 PM   #218
ho chi inn
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Quote:
Originally posted by GST2EVO
ok, doesnt a boost controller work by; hold pressure on one line till the spring cannot handle it anymore (reached set boost), than begins to blead that boost though the other line?

If so, why cant you just take one line to a vacum sourse, hook to boost control., than hook the other side up to the butterfly accuator?

well, for one, you need the vacuum to hold it shut. you could use a boost controller in place of the second solenoid. there are a lot of ways to do this. one person used the wastegate actuator, another has used an electric servo from a radio control model airplane. i was only showing how i did it, and it works for me. as always, ymmv.
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:42 PM   #219
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ho chi inn,

would you be interested in posting pictures and/or diagrams of your method? It would end a lot of questions or uncertainty. I'll definitely share mine as well when it happens.

Ken
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Old 10-13-2003, 05:41 PM   #220
ho chi inn
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Quote:
Originally posted by kengsx
ho chi inn,

would you be interested in posting pictures and/or diagrams of your method? It would end a lot of questions or uncertainty. I'll definitely share mine as well when it happens.

Ken

well, i dont want to take it off the car and take pictures. actually, the car is not here, it is at forced performance getting a rebuilt lsd put in. i can draw a diagram of how i have it, and fax it to you. i am not computer literate enough to draw in computerese and have it make any sense.
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Old 10-14-2003, 12:32 PM   #221
GST2EVO
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Quote:
Originally posted by ho chi inn


well, for one, you need the vacuum to hold it shut. you could use a boost controller in place of the second solenoid. there are a lot of ways to do this. one person used the wastegate actuator, another has used an electric servo from a radio control model airplane. i was only showing how i did it, and it works for me. as always, ymmv.

what kind of solenoids are you talking about?
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Old 10-14-2003, 02:59 PM   #222
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Did anyone notice the 3 or so cfm loss of flow? I had to take my USDM intake off last night to replace the gasket (boost leak). I already have the intake, coil pack, purple canister, and bracket.

Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:25 PM   #223
ho chi inn
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Quote:
Originally posted by GST2EVO


what kind of solenoids are you talking about?

my vr4 no longer has egr(cyclone does not have provisions for egr) and i have a manual boost controller. so, i used the solenoid that controls the fuel purge system(normal open) and the boost control solenoid(normal closed)
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Old 10-16-2003, 12:32 PM   #224
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ho chi inn - can you fax me the diagram? I sent you a PM. I need to get my galant running this weekend. Any info/help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 10-16-2003, 02:14 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally posted by dsm_sleeper
Did anyone notice the 3 or so cfm loss of flow? I had to take my USDM intake off last night to replace the gasket (boost leak). I already have the intake, coil pack, purple canister, and bracket.

Thanks!


guys, where can you get the coil pack bracket from?
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