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Old 02-16-2003, 11:08 PM   #176
Amin
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OOH GOD
was alot to read through these

but good it is not a rotten old thread

I have a galant that has JDM turbo put in it,. The car was orginally NT,


I am trying to ind a way to make the Cyclone work'

what I am thinking is to have the vacuum to the canister and after that a solenoid

also with my auto tranny would I benefit from any low end torque?!



Ho Chi, what did you do at the end?!
where is the actuation signal comming from?!



Thanks
AMin
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Old 02-19-2003, 07:25 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally posted by Deusxmachina
you either need the white canister that should come with it, or you need to make a one-way valve of some type. Otherwise, there won't be built-up vacuum/boost at the ready or whatever. TurboMitsu posted a good boost controller design on here to keep the cyclone closed until 9psi.


OK, I have the White cannister. Still, (With US ECU) What goes to what? If VABEACHDSM or GST2EVO would give me anEmail at blspruill@cox.net or call me at 547-1648 (I'm in Chesapeake) I would like to talk about this thing. And where is this boost controller design by TurboMitsu?? Bill Spruill
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Old 03-22-2003, 01:11 AM   #178
Marq4g63
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CAN ANYONE PLEASE SIMPLY POST A FINAL DIAGRAM FOR THE CYCLONE MANIFOLD?? ...makes reading this whole thread understand ALOT easier, and please be very specific.
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Old 03-22-2003, 12:13 PM   #179
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Marq4g63, where did you get your engine from???

It looks fuckin clean as hell... where all the necessary parts in good shape???
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Old 03-22-2003, 05:04 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally posted by DSTRBO
Marq4g63, where did you get your engine from???

It looks fuckin clean as hell... where all the necessary parts in good shape???

I got the motor from SOKEN in california. Yea the motor looks fresh and clean for a used motor, good thing.. and Yes, all the necessary parts where all in good shape. Ofcourse most of the electronics are cut off from japan before it was shipped.

My mechanic, who has a '98 talon tsi awd, is gonna leave the cyclone on the jdm motor and says he's gonna try to make it work. I gave him a print out of the Diagram for the Cyclone manifold posted by someone on this thread. He thinks he can make it work by using a pressure switch.. though i dont exactly know how he's actully gonna hook it up.
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Old 05-08-2003, 01:34 AM   #181
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I just posted Ken's porting pictures to my geocities site if anyone wants to check them out.

http://www.geocities.com/sean_mcnair
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Old 05-08-2003, 08:44 AM   #182
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I'll follow up with some exact measurements of what I did to the short runners. BTW, the long runners had some casting flash that I sanded out and gives the appearance of rough shiny areas, but they are much smoother and match the surface roughness of the stock casting.

And if anyone's wondering: ~30 hours worth of work on and off for a year with a dremel tool and sandpaper. All I have left to do is clean it up, make gaskets for it, and figure out what to do with the exterior. As soon as my 2.4L hybrid is ready, she's going in. I should be able to round up to 2.5L with the torque I'll have

Ken Young
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:53 AM   #183
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Well, if anyone is interested, I have a beautiful purple powder coated 2.0 Cyclone available. I am not equiped to go through the "fitment" problem with the A/C. Should be very good for a rally car. Bill Spruill, oldest Colt
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Old 05-12-2003, 10:08 AM   #184
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Ported Cyclone Dimensions

DIAMETER & AREA:
Stock runners are 36.8mm (1.45") diameter. The long runners were left alone. Ported short runners are 38.8mm (1.53") diameter. This is a 5.4% increase in diameter and 11% increase in area.

TAPER:
Since the manifold is 3 piece, it must be assembled, and there is about a +/- 0.5mm tolerance therefore the stackup can be 1mm. This is important so JDM mitsu tapered the runners on the "receiving" end to be 1mm over, this way there is no flow disruption if assembled far from nominal. I preserved this rationale.

Middle Section: 37.8mm taper to 36.8mm (long runners in). 40.8mm taper to 38.8mm (short runners in).

Butterfly Section: 37.8mm taper to 36.8mm (long runners in). 40.5mm taper to butterflies (short runners in), 38.6mm at 3mm depth, 37mm at 6mm depth, 36.8mm at 10mm depth.


FINISHING:
Surface finish to 150 grit.

Ken Young
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Old 10-08-2003, 02:26 PM   #185
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Anyone find the stock load and rpm point where the butterflies actuate from a JDM car?
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Old 10-08-2003, 02:28 PM   #186
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i b/l it was at approx 3k rpms...
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Old 10-08-2003, 02:30 PM   #187
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Can anyone verify? Also what LOAD and or throttle?
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Old 10-08-2003, 03:20 PM   #188
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If somebody finds a JDM ECU, they should donate or lend it to Jeff Oberholtzer to disect. He could probably dump the code and figure out what load and rpm tables were used to control a solenoid. I'll post the question on the DSM-ECU yahoo list.

Ken Young
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Old 10-08-2003, 06:45 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally posted by kengsx
If somebody finds a JDM ECU, they should donate or lend it to Jeff Oberholtzer to disect. He could probably dump the code and figure out what load and rpm tables were used to control a solenoid. I'll post the question on the DSM-ECU yahoo list.

Ken Young

jeff already has one. and he has dissected it.
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Old 10-09-2003, 10:31 AM   #190
Marq4g63
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now i am finishing up rebuilding my jdm motor w/ cyclone manifold.. how should i wire up the butterflies? or i should just hook it straight from manifold for now which seems to run ok
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Old 10-09-2003, 10:54 AM   #191
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If you've gotten anything out of this thread, it should be "do NOT connect the butterfly actuator straight to the manifold."

For now, leave it unhooked and therefore open. Then be patient, we'll have document methods on how to actuate them posted to this thread shortly.

Ken
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Old 10-09-2003, 11:17 AM   #192
Marq4g63
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Well having them hook from mani seemed to run fine like the US mani. Now i have fully cleaned my cyclone, clean as new with MCCC then repainted it.

But if leaving the butterfly actuator not hooked to anything would be better, then ill go with that. Ill be posted with the document methods ken.
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Old 10-09-2003, 02:34 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marq4g63
Well having them hook from mani seemed to run fine like the US mani. Now i have fully cleaned my cyclone, clean as new with MCCC then repainted it.

But if leaving the butterfly actuator not hooked to anything would be better, then ill go with that. Ill be posted with the document methods ken.

so your saying the butterflies are closed only under vacume?
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Old 10-09-2003, 02:43 PM   #194
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That is correct. Thus with a suddent loss of vacuum, or positive pressure they will open. The trick that has been done is to keep a vacuum signal even under low boost conditions. This involves a vacuum reservoir and solenoid(s) to control the how vacuum is applied to the butterflies.

Ken
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Old 10-09-2003, 02:49 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally posted by kengsx
That is correct. Thus with a suddent loss of vacuum, or positive pressure they will open. The trick that has been done is to keep a vacuum signal even under low boost conditions. This involves a vacuum reservoir and solenoid(s) to control the how vacuum is applied to the butterflies.

Ken

ok I see now..*light bulb goes off in head*....now i know why my green spooled up so fast but lagged on the top end...lol
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Old 10-09-2003, 03:04 PM   #196
Marq4g63
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If you hooked it up from manifold vac source and lagged on top end then your butterflies must be shut w/ or w/o boost. meaning your actuator doesnt work. not good.
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Old 10-09-2003, 03:08 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marq4g63
If you hooked it up from manifold vac source and lagged on top end then your butterflies must be shut w/ or w/o boost. meaning your actuator doesnt work. not good.

wait..if the butterflies are shut under vacum then they do work, b/c that would mean the runners are closed and not open...the closed runners would therefore increase torque and help with spool, which is the whole point of having them..
right??
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Old 10-09-2003, 03:10 PM   #198
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I had just planned to use a vacuum hose off the manifold -> a MBC -> the purple canister -> the actuator
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Old 10-09-2003, 03:21 PM   #199
kengsx
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The setup I've seen and the one in my head is a bit more elaborate. More like a parallel setup instead of in series, such that the vacuum reservoir is switched on and off depending on when it's needed.

Problem with manifold-->boost controller-->canister-->actuator is that the butterflies might not react fast enough, and I don't think the canister will be purged fast enough to close the butterflies when they need to be between shifts.

It's a good start though, and I suggest you give it a try and note what happens. I'll admit, I'm going to be silent for the next couple weeks because I'm not going to have the chance to implement any ideas until the engine is broken in.

Ken Young
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Old 10-09-2003, 03:22 PM   #200
Marq4g63
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Quote:
Originally posted by GST2EVO


wait..if the butterflies are shut under vacum then they do work, b/c that would mean the runners are closed and not open...the closed runners would therefore increase torque and help with spool, which is the whole point of having them..
right??

yea vac present = closed :: boost present = open

which means you shouldnt be lagging when youre on boost top end since they should be open. get it.
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