Deusxmachina

I haven't had any canister bracket-clearing issues at all. I cut off the lower boss for the coil bracket, and had to grind down the #1 runner and the top of the a/c compressor. I kept grinding on the runner so much that I was getting worried I'd see daylight through it, which is why I turned my attention to the top of the compressor to take some off of there. The intake should be ok, I would think.

I'm using the JDM plug wires that came with the engine, (figured I'd burn out the used ones first), but my NGKs are the same size.

Disturbed, everyone hooks it up to the front of the intake, so you got it right. I don't know exactly how the factory solenoids work, either. The fuel pressure one is on only at startup, and I don't remember what the other one is.

Thinking about that one nipple... do the JDMs have the charcoal canister or *any* kind of emissions? All of our tb nipples are just for emissions. But, if the ecu uses the EGR wire to control the cyclone solenoid, then having it also hooked up to that nipple might make some sense.

With either method, that would mean the cyclones are setup in Japan to open at anything above 3000rpms, which wouldn't be a bad way to do things. But, other than for that meaning the intake is open during highway cruising (and possibly having better fuel economy), I think a psi method to control it would provide better throttle response since at under 10psi or whatever you'd always be closed and spool up faster.

I finished getting it back on now. I spent a good portion of this last week playing with the install again. man. And the whole time the problem was me thinking it was clearing the a/c. Oh well, I can't be smart *all* the time, I guess.

The car starts and idles on its own now, of course, so that's good. Vaccum reading on the resetted-ECU looks where it should be, so looks like the intake fully cleared the a/c this time with no leaks. I was worried for a minute there because I heard this big leak and the idle was funky, but I just had forgotten to put the brake booster line back on.

Since my actuator is toast and I took it off, I now can also say that, at idle, the closed butterflies are good for about one more hg of vacuum over being open. Open, the guage showed 17.5", and then I flipped the lever and it went to about 18.5". So whether having the butterflies open at cruise for more airflow, or closed and having a hair more vacuum, I don't know which one would give better gas mileage on the highway.

Until I get another actuator, I guess this will let me play with my spring theory of controlling the butterflies. I can see myself in the hardware store now... "Excuse me, do you know which of these springs won't stretch until about 10 pounds of boost?" "Uh...."

Looking at the butterflies again when I had it off the numerous times this week, the butterflies do sit at an angle in there, and so lots of air flowing through should blow them to the open position. So maybe the spring method will work if I can find the right spring. The only thing would be that they'd open in proportion to how much boost (air) is coming through -- so they'd be half open at 5psi or whatever. Still wouldn't be a bad way to have it work, I s'pose.